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eKibitz » DIY » Closet Shelving Guide eKibitz



The Ultimate Closet Shelving Guide

One common headache that just about everybody goes through at one point in their life or another is an unorganized closet, or not enough space in their closet. This problem is typically amplified if you live with other people, such as roommates or your family, when you simply can't throw stuff in another room. So, you have to make do with what little space you have, and the best place to get working on is a closet.

Closets aren't just “one size fits all.” Every person needs to have a different use for a closet. Some people just want to hang up clothes, while others may stack them full of computer equipment. Regardless of what you are doing with your closet, chances are that if you didn't install the shelving yourself (or didn't have somebody do it for you) then things could be done a lot better.

For example, does your closet just contain a single shelf and rod going across the top? Well, unless you're hanging up a rack of overalls, your closet space is being needlessly wasted. The average closet height is between 7 and 8 feet tall, and one shelf with a rod at the top, with tons of possessions piled on the floor is just a bit wasteful. So, what do to? Throw an extra shelf or two in there!

Cheap and efficient: Wooden shelving

The nice thing about wooden shelving with these cheap brackets is it doesn't cost much. The brackets cost about $2-$4 a piece at my local hardware store, and you only need 2 (3 in a long closet) to safely hold up a shelf. They also come with little hooks that can hold up a closet rod, though you can also buy variations without the hooks if you plan to fill a closet with shelving. The shelves themselves just consist of long boards of wood, which don't cost too much. And since the closet is just going to be hidden away, you can get away with using cheap pine boards. I recommend just getting boards of a ¾ inch thickness. For width, just make sure they are as wide as your brackets, or you will end up with problems. Most importantly, check the brackets and the board for deformities BEFORE you buy them. The last thing you want is a shelf that doesn't sit flat on the brackets because it's got a bow or cup in it.

What you need:

  • A 2 to 4 foot level
  • Pencil
  • Drill or electric screwdriver (a regular screwdriver will work as well)
  • A stud sensor
  • 3-inch screws
  • Shelf brackets and wooden shelf, cut to the desired length
  • Closet rod (if needed)

If you don't have a saw, or there is only limited room in your car, inquire about getting the shelf cut for you in the store. Most lumber stores have saws that (with employee assistance) are there to cut your wood for you. Not only is it handy if you can't fit an 8 foot board in your car, but this service is typically free with a purchase of lumber, so might as well take advantage of it! Just remember to measure the width of your closet before going to the store.

The first thing you want to do is use the stud sensor to find where your studs are. (Follow the directions that came with it for more details on that.) Mark out on the closet wall the edges of each stud, so you can place the shelf bracket in the middle of the stud. Using your level to make sure the bracket is perfectly plumb (vertical) screw the bracket to the stud when it is at the desired height. On a side note, make sure to screw the bracket to the stud closest to the edge of the closet (or where the edge of the shelf will be) because if the shelf overhangs too much, too much weight on the end can cause the other end to lift up.After this, there are a few ways to go about putting up the second bracket. If you have a second set of hands that can help you, then have them help you put the shelf on the first bracket. From there, go to the other end of the shelf, and hold the bracket on the stud closest to the edge of the shelf, using it to hold up the end of the shelf. While one person is holding up the end of the shelf with the bracket, the other person can place the level on top of the shelf, and direct the person to raise or lower the bracket until the shelf is perfectly level. Mark the outline of the bottom of the bracket, (so if it moves on you, you can move it back into place) plumb it with the level and screw to the wall. If the shelf is any wider than 5 feet, I suggest installing a third bracket in the middle of the shelf. If you don't have a helping hand on you, you can also use your level to mark a level line on the wall. However, if you have an especially long closet, it isn't exactly a viable alternative. If your floor is perfectly level, you can use a tape measure to measure from the floor to the top of the first bracket. Just transfer this measurement to all the other studs, so you can easily line the other brackets up.

If all the brackets are secured tightly to the wall (and they should be!) then you don't even need to screw the shelf to the brackets. If the shelf is wobbling or rocking on the brackets, there are three possibilities: 1) The shelf has a deformity, (which you should be checking for at the store) 2) the brackets have a deformity, (which you also should be checking for at the store) or 3) you messed up somewhere installing the shelf. If the brackets are perfectly level, then the shelf will sit flat on top of them without fuss. Should you want to screw the shelf to the brackets, however, there are holes on the top edge of the brackets for that purpose, so it's really up to you. Also, once the shelf is installed, now is when you may put the closet rod in, if you bought brackets meant to hold one.

If you've got a long closet, don't feel tied down to just running shelves across the length of it, either. Wire shelving (which I'll get into in Part Two) has the advantage of being extremely configurable and easy to install. However, with a little imagination, you can design the perfect closet system out of wooden shelving for much cheaper than the price of wire shelving. For example, need lots of shelves to store stuff, but have a few parkas, overalls or anything that requires lots of space to hang? Run a couple shelves all the way across the top. Then, run shelves ½ to ¾ the length of the closet (again, depending on closet width) so you can hang long pieces of clothes from the higher shelves on one end. Or, if you have a LOT of stuff to hang, run a single shelf and rod across the top, and then another one halfway down the wall, essentially doubling the amount of space you have to hang clothes, which is useful in small spaces. The possibilities are literally endless. The only thing that limits you with wooden shelving is it isn't easily changeable; if you decide later on you want less shelves, or you want them moved around, your only option is to unscrew the brackets from the wall, and screw them in someplace else, leaving you with holes in the wall that you'll have to fill in and paint over.

Last Modified: November 10th, 2006


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